The French Riviera’s new art scene isn’t in museums

Coul'Heures d'Automne. Photos by Antibes Juan-les-Pins and Matthew Wexler.
Coul'Heures d'Automne. Photos by Antibes Juan-les-Pins and Matthew Wexler.
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By Matthew Wexler

French Riviera Week:
Your guide to the Côte d’Azur‘s cultural treasures

Antibes and neighboring Juan-les-Pins in the French Riviera were once the playground of Cole Porter, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Pablo Picasso, and the ever-verbose Dorothy Parker. But the 21st century has brought a new generation of artists to this stunning coastal enclave. And they’re thinking big. 

Coul’Heures d’Automne (the International Urban Art Festival) recently celebrated its sixth edition, welcoming 16 guest artists from around the world to reimagine public spaces as canvases of creative expression. Visionaries painted over 7,000 square feet of facades and a 60-foot bus tram to create, as its founders describe, a space “a space for expression, transmission and encounters.”

‘A Spoonful of Love Goes a Long Way’

"A Spoonful of Love" outdoor mural by WANJA.
“A Spoonful of Love” outdoor mural by WANJA. Photo by Matthew Wexler

WANJA’s works often evoke political or social commentary (including this provocative take on our current president). For the festival, the artist chose a more optimistic interpretation, titling the work “A Spoonful of Love Goes a Long Way.” I couldn’t agree more.

‘Keep It Together’

This year’s commissions included Judith de Leeuw’s profound, large-scale “Keep It Together,” painted on the wall of Antibes Hospital’s psychiatry department. The image shows Greek titan Atlas holding a shattered globe—a symbol for how many of us are feeling these days.

‘Le Jazz des Cigales’

"Le Jazz des Cigales" by French artist Willian.
“Le Jazz des Cigales” by French artist Willian. Photo by Matthew Wexler

Self-taught French artist Willian’s “Le Jazz des Cigales” pays tribute to Ella Fitzgerald’s “The Cricket Song.” Jazz aficionados will recognize the title from the singer’s eponymous live album, Ella at Juan-les-Pins, recorded at the Antibes Jazz Festival in 1964 (returning this July for its 65th edition).

‘Childhood Memory’


Step aside, Labubu. French artist Otom worked on an unconventional surface—an access staircase at Carrefour (think Costco, but French)—where he shows the wonder of a child with her stuffed animal. “The shape of the wall, divided by a staircase, became a strength,” says the artist. “It invites passersby to enter the artwork and become, for a moment, that child lost amidst the aisles filled with magic.”

‘Pie en vol’

"Pie en vol" by Kalouf.
“Pie en vol” by Kalouf. Photo courtesy of Antibes Juan-les-Pins.

Painted for the 2022 festival, “Pie en vol” by Kalouf depicts a magpie. The artist often highlights wildlife to bring attention to environmental issues. The mural is located on one of several art trails in Antibes.

The Fitzgeralds may no longer be there, but Antibes Juan-les-Pins is still throwing one hell of a party—you just need to look up.

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